The Whinging Pome: Untangle in Tangalle

Tangalle in southern Sri Lanka on the A2 is noted for its bays, beaches, reefs, and mangroves. There are also turtle projects on some beaches. Tangalle's history goes back beyond the colonisers.

Having just spent over a week chilling in Tangalle, I’ve found a lot more about this paradise location. It has over 750 hotels and registered accommodations, but you don’t sense this size as you drive through the town. In its centre, there are two places they say you should visit: the church dated 1876 and the old Dutch fort. The church was closed, and we couldn’t get entry into the fort. It is now a detention centre for terrorist suspects.

On this coastal visit to Tangalle, we are staying at a major complex/resort and a peace haven, one of the best examples of luxury on the island. For many foreign tourists, Tangalle is ideally located for a varied Sri  Lanka holiday, December to April are the peak times. Staying around amazing beaches, we try The Silent Beach with its rock pools. The level of erosion is very striking. We were here in March 2005 for the official opening of Amanwella, designed by Geoffrey Bawa. I recall the opening; the country president was over two hours late. As she started the opening process someone knocked the power off. Our journey home was quick as we tucked in behind the president’s vehicle convoy. Never been back to the hotel since.

Tangalle is easily accessible to Yala and other safari parks, yet close to Galle. It has a lagoon, bird-watching locations, wetlands, and a safari park. My favourite place to visit is twenty minutes away: an amazing rock temple with four large, lying Buddhas. Be prepared for lots of steps around this amazing rock temple complex. Up and down I counted just over nine hundred. It’s a little like a mini Sigiriya. The town harbour was important for international trading, but now it’s a regional fishing port. We make the most of eating in a sea-front restaurant with the very best of lobster, crabs, and prawns. The table is on a cement deck, one foot away from the sea. The owner is a delight to chat with; at $40 a head, it is great value.

I’m always fascinated and concerned about the fishermen and their boats, known traditionally as “oruva.” Nothing much has changed in centuries other than the outboard motors. At night around the island of Sri Lanka, the boatmen have fished in the same way for centuries, no different in Tangalle.

There are many villas you can rent in the area, we check out one on a cliff, the land dropping to a small beach. So no doubt we will return to Tangalle. It is a lovely peaceful place where you can relax and wallow on amazing beaches. 

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