Mumbai is a fascination of colour, culture, amazing locations, landscapes and colonial properties .It attracts  6 million tourists a year , another two million are foreign. Sri Lanka has less than  two million foreign tourists. I think  however most foreigners perception  of Mumbai  is dirty, overcrowded, lacking in toilets, full of beggars and chaotic roads. Predominately the  view of Westerns. 

I always used to say, “Drop me blindfolded into any major city in India, and I will tell you what city I am in from the smell and temperature/humidity.” All Indian cities had distinctive smells and varying climates, but for me, Mumbai was the smelliest. After working and spending lots of time in the city, it has become for me  fascinating, lively, and I don’t smell anything anymore. Around every corner, there is something new. This is in part due to traveling with Shahwaz Khan my best buddy  in India, some of the photographs in the article are taken by him . 

The city is one of the most populous in the world, with 12.5 million people . It houses Mumbai’s Dharavi slum, the biggest in Asia and one of the largest in the world. Yet, Mumbai has the highest number of millionaires of any city in India. Generations of families live in Dharavi, making it an integral part of the city. It is well-structured and organized. On a two-hour tour of the slum, I met an Irishman who visited and decided never to leave, dedicating his life  to those he felt he could help.

Mumbai’s railways carry more people in one day than British Rail carries in one year. As for the traffic, Mumbai has come a long way from spending hours in stationary traffic.

When I think about the British Raj in India, I visualize what Mumbai might have looked like today. Imagine the beauty of the seven islands that make up Mumbai. These islands could easily have morphed into the Mumbai Riviera. Oddly enough, some locals think it already has, despite the beaches being overcrowded and filthy. Today, some of the beach facing areas are among the most expensive real estate in the world.

I think foreigners view Mumbai as less culture and history and Delhi as more important to visit. Getting into India as a foreign visitor was a complicated visa processes. Over 150 nationalities can now get e-visas. Grubby airports have transformed into some of the best in the world. Movies often paint a grim picture of India—"Slumdog Millionaire" was filmed in Mumbai in 2008, with most of the scenes shot in Dharavi.

The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 78 states: “With all things in life, you need to open your eyes and look for the positives rather than the negatives.”

Walking in many parts of Mumbai, every corner is a feast for the senses: old properties, temples, I have  visited ten churches, met colourful characters, ate in the street with food aromas wafting around . Colonial buildings, great restaurants and bars, fabulous shopping, street festivals, and whacky photo shoot opportunities. And then there’s Bollywood. It produces more movies than Hollywood and serves as an increasingly positive symbol for the city and country.  The movies are vibrant and often family-oriented, unlike many Western films that focus on violence, sex, war, or a combination of all three.

Julian Sands, the English actor, perfectly echoes my thoughts on Mumbai, saying: “The thing about Mumbai is you go five yards and all of human existence is revealed. It’s an incredible cavalcade of life, and I love that.”

For these reasons, I have fallen in love with this chaotic, charming city. I admire the Mumbaikars. Despite the poverty, appalling living standards for some and many obstacles they rise above it, choosing to move forward, regardless of role or social status. They know change for many is not coming anytime soon. However, middle-class growth is impressive  and super-rich numbers are booming.

On a recent trip to Mumbai, I was a guest at the Royal Mumbai Yacht Club. Sitting in the plush surroundings reiterated the range of experiences in this diverse city. Unfortunately, this oasis makes me wonder: who are happier? The chosen few who enjoy the yacht club or the slum dwellers with little to lose? In their minds, perhaps they are both winners.