The Whinging Pome: Don’t go chasing waterfalls

Dec 13 2024.

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There are said to be over four hundred waterfalls in Sri Lanka. Lanka Council of Waterfalls say there could be more, some known to locals but not logged formally. In comparison to the land mass, Sri Lanka has more waterfalls than any other country in the world. So what makes a great waterfall? For some, it’s the water volume, the drop, the spray, the rock outcrops, or the pool at the bottom. Asking about favourites, Ravan Falls near Ella ( “Ella “ means waterfall in Sinhalese ) is thought to be the most beautiful but best seen in the spring. 

In twenty-two years I’ve likely clocked up over thirty waterfalls on the island. A month ago we stayed in Ella and even from the road location you can see waterfalls. Bambarakanda Falls has a drop of 263 meters making it the forty-fourth highest in the world. So why is the little island of Sri Lanka so blessed with all this water? Well, two monsoons a year is likely the biggest reason along with mountainous regions. 

I must admit to being someone who has seen the three greatest falls in the world and lived eight kilometres from Victoria Falls in Zambia. It’s the third tallest but longest sheet of water in the world. Iquazu has an impressive landscape and Niagara Falls, fifth highest, is likely the most famous. 

Our friends recently booked a stay at a Bali-style treehouse up-end activity chalet resort. They wanted to go and look at waterfalls and invited us to join them. Subject to, no kids, that we take the whole accommodation, and it is BYOB, we agreed to stay. Four hours after getting in the vehicle in Colombo, we arrived at the location in Belihuloya near the south of Badulla. After a great Sri Lankan lunch, we head off in a safari-type jeep to visit the Suratali Ella and Bambarakanda Falls. They are so different. Suratali Falls has a shortish drop, but you can sit in front of the falls on the rocks or in a rock pool partway up on a flat ledge. 

Great selfie location. Bambarakanda Falls is a twenty-minute uphill walk on a path. Stunning views. The falls have a significant drop and we are quite impressed from the viewing platform. We walk back and notice that they are creating parking spaces for visitors, and there are modern cute little huts to buy water and snacks.

The famous 300-kilometre Pekoe Trail walk through Sri Lanka passes by the area where we are staying. There are two stretches of the trail close by but we have run out of time. Not sure yet if there are any waterfalls on this section of the hike but planning to return.



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