It has been twenty years since my last visit to Bangkok. Yet, having done two trips there in six months I  see much has changed.

A bunch of friends gathered to celebrate a few birthdays , catch up and chill.  Six have lived in Bangkok and some have done business there, so there is a lot of historic knowledge. Six different nationalities  plus a Brit( that’s me), and a token yanky Sri Lankan.

Lots of foodie people on the trip plan amazing eating-out experiences, but not all on massive budgets. My favourite is Naam1608 on the main river, with a diverse menu and great views. There are daily shopping expeditions and special places in between for smokers. Some of the male members of the team go “spare car parts hunting,” but I wonder if this is a cover for some darker activity. I’m not invited. This is what happens when you have been a vicar’s son. 

Smoking various substances is now legal in the country. It’s a must for many who visit Thailand. In prior days, supply was greatly controlled by the police and other officials, and it was all an undercover illegal cash empire. Now legalized, it’s a great revenue earner for the government and a cleaner police force.

This city is so clean compared to my previous visit. Bangkok must, however, be Asia’s capital for the various forms of massages.

Twenty years ago, I was working on a programme for the duty-free business at the Bangkok airport, having many meetings with Vichai, the owner of King Power Duty-Free. He was a very successful and engaging individual and remained in touch for many years. It was so sad to hear of his death in 2018 when his helicopter crashed at Leicester City Football Club. He was the owner of the club, and many fans loved and appreciated him for empowering the team to win the UK Premier League. His care for the supporters was another winning attribute.

Thailand is somewhat unique as it has never been ruled by a foreign entity. This I feel is  one of the reasons for the limited language skills of the locals.

Given a surplus of good quality properties in the city, finding a newish apartment block designed for short stays was not difficult. Excellent value, like a hotel with a pool and café in a great location.
We both enjoy jazz bars/clubs, and there is plenty of choice in the city. The name Foojohn Jazz Club sounds odd, but the jazz bar is named after the major building it is in. Nothing else is major (B flat major, maybe). This twenty-five-seater restaurant is tucked down an alley and three flights of steps up. It's likely the smallest jazz venue I’ve been in. A piano player and singer/trumpet player do three sets.

The jazz is varied, so there's something for everyone. The singer is great, but when he plays the trumpet, he is outstanding. Very little chat. Ten dollars for a bottle of wine! Initially, Jezzabel would not drink it but came around quite quickly. The club is easy to get to but 25 minutes from central Bangkok. It’s open from Wednesday to Sunday. Lots of odd jazz nuts hanging at the bar. We went on a Wednesday, so it was easy to get a seat. At weekends, best to go early. There are many jazz venues listed in this musical city.

 I’m a taphophile, someone who enjoys visiting cemeteries. It was somewhat of a surprise to hear there is a Protestant cemetery in Bangkok. Arriving two hours after the daily opening time, I find the gates are closed. A scruffy chap appears from sleeping in the back of a truck. He points to the sign which has a number to ring, but nobody picks up the call. He turns over a rock by the gate and pulls out a key, allowing me entry into a small part of the cemetery.

About thirty minutes later, a rather overweight lady on a very small bike arrives on the other side of a big gate to let me in. The cemetery was started in 1853 and has 1800 bodies. Gravestones are like looking at partially written history books. The names can help with nationality, dates give you some history, and other smaller writings and messages on the tombstones also add value to your assumptions, e.g., titles like general, lord mayor, president, sea captain, doctors, etc.

In this cemetery, there is an abundance of foreign nationals. About 70% of the total is from European stock. Others date from the 1800s to the 1950s. About twenty per cent of the cemetery is under some water. It also has a number of damaged, dilapidated, or neglected graves.

So there is lots of diversity for visitors to Bangkok. I’m not leaving it another decade or more before I return.