The Whinging Pome: Walking Through Historic Colombo

Aug 09 2024.

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Every day I do my morning or evening walk and vary the route as much as possible. There are many options for walks in the heart of Colombo. The weather can hamper you, e.g. it’s too hot or heavy rain, the pollution also can be a bit of a killer. Many people do get out, generally early morning or early evening, on the Galle Face Green. It has great sunsets, and it also has loads of history going back to the eighteen hundreds.

Look at the pavilion building in front of the Taj hotel. It is ironic that land facing the green is occupied by two large Indian  hotel chains. What is more worrying is that the Green is shrinking  in size , with more commercial activities.

The Beira Lake has another set of interesting walks. The temple lake (0.65 km²) can easily be circumnavigated on foot in 45 minutes. You can meet the ducks, the swans (paddle  boats) and  water monitors of various sizes. There are a few temples, one stands in the water. The lake is silted up and massively polluted. Please don’t send visitors from abroad there, a bit embarrassing. Perhaps the other big walking location is the Victoria Park. (Viharamaha Devi Park to you locals) Lots of greenery and some amazing trees, though some have been lost in the last few years. A host of statues and plaques, and you may slow down on the visit to meet the elephants and horses. There is a lot of history, lots of walkers in the park. I’m always drawn to the cenotaph and the names of all those who died so we could have freedom.

A better and longer walk around the Beira Lake can be accessed on the opposite side of the Lake House  building , McCullum Road  by going down some steps through an outdoor unmaintained maritime museum. There are three canals that link to the harbour and the sea. Amazing colonial history . From here, there is a footpath round the scenic Colombo lake with city views. It’s an interesting one hour, and you’re likely to stop to take photos often. You pass the Lotus Tower, it’s not my bag. On the walk there are some interesting buildings and a yard with a collection of classic cars. Colourful walking from twilight  to sun down. It’s not a circular walk as the path dries up , turn back and there is a lane on your right, after 30 feet you’re up on Darley Road. 

My Walks through historic Pettah are frequent and they include the famous red mosque , churches, including the oldest still active church on the island. Wolvendaal was built in 1757 on a hill where wolves  roamed below.  There are temples, and mosques and markets and the most amazing old Town Hall with an outdoor museum. The man in charge takes delight in giving you a good tour, with a surprise at the end. There are other walks including the floating market, and fort which includes my favourite church; St Peter’s, built by the British on a site that goes back to 1627  as a chapel.  

The clock tower with four working clocks , the cell of the last King of Kandy and classic old prestige’s hotels. Go into The Grand Oriental Hotel and view the port from the restaurant, then ask to see their f inest bedroom and take a tour, you will be pleasantly surprised. A recent addition to my walks , let’s call it modern history but work in progress, has been the Port City.  On foot you can see the harbour, beaches and walk extensively, as yet I’ve not gained walking  access into the 'other' area. So if you have the time, get out there and walk the city, and it’s history, you will be very well rewarded and amazed.



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