Eight of us set off to Yala, in the south of Sri Lanka. When the trip was planned, Jezzabel and I made it clear that while we would join, we would not visit this game park on principle. Previous experiences in the park, spanning over two decades, have shown us the mismanagement, corruption, over- crowding and chaos. This all makes visiting Yala Game Park unacceptable to us. You may argue that I’m not an expert on parks, but I have visited numerous parks across five countries in Africa, three parks in India, and five in Sri Lanka. Well managed parks enforce restricted vehicle numbers to key sightings, maintain realistic visitor limits at any given time, often allow only park-owned jeeps in, provide disciplined guides and rangers, and in some cases employ professional drivers; qualities Yala seems to lack in most aspects.

The park, or the area of Yala, was noted on a map by a Spaniard in 1560 but was officially created in 1900. Today, it covers 378 square miles divided into five blocks with a variety of ecosystems. One part of the park even faces the Indian Ocean. This unique geography provides a habitat for the "big three": elephants, sloth bears and a relatively high density of leopards. Over forty other species can also be spotted here.

Our goal for this trip is  to spend quality time with a group of Canadian friends who often visit Sri Lanka. We leave our van behind to transit into a game-park-style jeep and endure the hazardous road to our luxury tented accommodation. For our Canadian friends, the plan is  to have at least three trips into Yala Park.

However, the Yala Game Park tour is cancelled due to thunderous and rain that lasts almost three days. With only one gate open briefly hundreds of vehicles are trying to enter, chaos ensues.  The Canadians spend about four hours driving around outside the park but see absolutely nothing.

We have a fantastic time, filled with lots of banter, in the excellent luxury tented  resort with great services  and cuisine. Jezzabel  and I go on a boat ride—it seemed logical with all that rain. Our boat is t essentially two fibre-glass canoe shells with a deck on top. When the boatman and a hamper arrive the notice so-called boat is half-submerged. Five others join in to help bail out the water from the hulls. The evening ride around a man-made bund lake proves to be a birdwatcher’s haven. Many trees are standing in substantial water. Two local staff members rowed merrily with stubby paddles.

The relentless three days of rain continue  leading to the cancellation of other boat trips. Back at the luxury tent safari, team activities increased.

As water levels rise, it feels as though we are staying in floating lodges. Out large dip pool overlooks scenery reminiscent of the movie “Deliverance,” a 1972 American swamp thriller. From breakfast to dinner, the delights keep our spirits high, and the wine flows freely. There are a few snakes, one of which decided to join us in the luxury tent. Birds in abundance add to the experience.

My previous visits to Yala have all have been so disappointing hence it has not been  on our itinerary for over a decade. To all animal and park lovers: can you truly call yourself both when visiting Yala? Mass tourism has led to scenes where I’ve sat in a single jeep, only to be joined by 15 other jeeps ,  with people crowding to watch and track one leopard. Jeep drivers push and jostle for the best positions, even calling others to further congest the sighting. Where are the rules?

I recently visited Jhala Leopard Park near Jaipur. Only park-owned vehicles and drivers are allowed there. With good roads it’s simple getting about. We buy  a  lovely Indian meal in a tray at the gate and consume it later sitting  above a water hole.

A suggestion I read recently was that Yala should expand its park tours to one or more of the underutilized park spaces. The aim would be to make it a premier experience with its own drivers, vehicles, trackers, and improved roads. Entry prices should reflect these new facilities.

I will continue visiting the amazing game parks in Sri Lanka, but Yala Park is not on my list unless dramatic improvements are implemented.