The Whinging Pome: A Taphophile in Sri Lanka

Mar 22 2024.

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When I introduce myself as a taphophile, the first question many people ask me is “What’s a taphophile?". My simple answer is that it’s someone who enjoys visiting cemeteries and their associated history. On a grander scale, we all enjoy a little black tourism. This relates normally to locations that are known because of major events that took place. I’ve written about many. E.g. Auschwitz, the Irish uprising, Hiroshima and numerous locations in Sri Lanka.

Whilst I’ve been a taphophile for over twenty years, like most people I’m also fascinated by historical events, locations and famous people who are no longer with us. Sri Lanka is blessed with a long and colourful history and there are endless sites and cemeteries to visit. I’ve written and spoken about some of these over the years and delight in taking people to see locations, including cemeteries, churches and historical sites.

The reality is that there is a bit of taphophile in most of us, but finding the time to visit sites is not a high priority for many. To persuade my wife to join me on some of my visits I foolishly agreed that for every hour she spends with me in a cemetery I will spend twice as much time shopping with her. So, having visited over a hundred countries in which I’ve had my taphophile moments, e.g. New Zealand, Namibia, India, Jordan, Myanmar, Greece, Gibraltar, Argentina, Brazil Uruguay, the UK, the USA and more, you can imagine how much shopping I have done.

Sri Lanka’s colourful history its active multi-religious background and the colonial era have generated a lot of places of interest for an active taphophile. Some of the key locations on the island that I recommend visiting are 

  • The Garrison Cemetery, Kandy y Borella Cemetery, Colombo, a historical feast for a Taphophile y The burial place of Adam and Eve, Mannar, no excavation has taken place so it’s most likely a myth.
  • The British Commonwealth graves around the island, six in total.
  • 100s of churches with many having cemeteries, many reminders of those who served for their country etc.
  • Upcountry churches with interesting burial sites, and planter’s stories. The reality is that there is a bit of taphophile in most of us, but finding the time to visit sites is not a high priority for many.
  • Tsunami memorials and post-war sites, some thought-provoking and many just cheap tourist traps.
  • Recent wartime sites, memorials, battle locations (much of the war with LTTE history has been wiped out)
  • Elephant Pass, Jaffna. Bravery against all odds. y World War Two sites have many intriguing stories to explore.
  • Diving to see HMS Hermes.
  • Victoria Park, Colombo with its history, remembrance and statues.
  • An array of colonial forts, some with a dark history.
  • Cursed tombs, tombs of heroes and villains.

There is plenty to see if you are a budding taphophile, enjoy history, remembrance, intrigue and heroes. A republished version  of the book  “Tombstones and Monuments” is one  of the best ways of tracking colonial graves in Sri Lanka up to about 1905. So, forget shopping and take a nice walk in a cemetery. It’s more interesting than a park and you never know who you will meet.



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