Emerging from the water, a little island, a short distance away from the Trincomalee harbour is the beautful Sober Island.  Away from prying eyes for many decades Sober Island is steeped in history and has been a well kept secret. 

Inaccessible to the public during the war, the Government as part of its development drive has now made Sober Island a holiday retreat which is very capably run by the Navy.

The history of Sober Island is fascinating and dates far back in time. In 1775 a teenage Midshipman name Horatio Nelson arrived in Trincomalee aboard the HMS Sea Horse.

Later as Admiral of the British Navy he would respectfully refer to Trincomalee Harbour as “the finest harbour in the world”. Full of strategic importance Sober Island is veiled in maritime history especially as a place of colonial occupation.

Legend has it that Sober Island has been home to mariners for over 400 years.

A french Fleet led by JB de la Haye engaged the incumbent Dutch and tried to wrestle control of the harbour in 1672 to use it as a base for their operations in Asia.

The french under the Dutch who had barricaded themselves in the Fort acquired Sober Island and called it Isle du Soleil. In 1672 the French signed a treaty with King Rajasinha. However due to logistical issues de la Haye was forced to abandon his plans and leave.

The french occupation of the island is still indelible as the old brick masonry that lies in ruins demonstrates classic dutch architecture which  was possibly a construction by the French in an attempt to consolidate a garrison in the Island.

The island played a pivotal role in guarding the natural harbour of Trincomalee considered a place of strategic importance by no less than British Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill a great tactician and strategist during the Second World War.

The Island had provided coastal defence and emplacements for coastal gun batteries on the southern face of the island. These infrastructure remnants which stand today serve as a reminder of the civil engineering expertise used in absence of heavy mechanisized machinery.

The island was named in memory of the young British lietenant S Sober who served with distinction. 

Much of the infrastructure on the island was built around 1832 under the British Command. In order to fortify and guard the Trincomalee Harbour Barracks,and Gun batteries were built amongst others.

Fondly referred to as the Wellesly and Arthur Gun batteries the remnants of these still stands amongst the growing vegetaion and herds of deer which inhabit the island.

Some of the original building sites have been rebuilt and a luxury resort is now in operation at Sober Island. The resort run by the navy offersa fantastic island experience.

Guided tours around the Island are available with excellent guides fully versant in the history of maritime history of the island. The calm and quiet atmosphere offers a peaceful environment to any discerning traveller.

The island is blessed with two beautiful coves, Orlando and Nicholson coves provide the ideal environment for snorkelling and other water sports such as kayaking, angling, hiking, along with tennis and cricket are also available.

Tropical fish abound and it is a snokerkllers paradise. Ancient wrecks in the harbour provide the ideal opportunity for divers to explore. Transport to and from the island is by a boat service provided by the Navy.

The resort has well appointed chalets and rooms, offering a swimming pool, tennis court and cricket pitch, all remnants from the past which have been rebuilt.

The bar and dining room are built on the  site of the former officer’s mess and its exposed brickwork and layout lend it a quaint atmosphere reminiscent of a bygone era.

An idylic island retreat,this outpost is shrouded by tropical vegetation and littered with artifacts and relics of a rich maritme history. An oasis of calm Sober Island has been one of the country’s best kept secrets, until now that is!

By Tina Edward Gunawardhana

Photos by Manoj Rathnayake