Ever wondered why that button from your new shirt is already popping off? Or why your jeans are all faded out despite it being only your second wear?

Knock, knock! Fast fashion has reached you. 

Fast fashion is considered to be cheap, trendy clothing that is mass-produced to follow the current styles in the industry at prices that are attractive to the public. At first, it sounds like a neat deal - stylish clothing that is incredibly convenient and affordable. However, a closer look into it exposes a business concept that has been criticised for poor quality products, a staggering amount of waste and unethical company malpractices.

This industry aims to encourage people to spend more and purchase clothing that can be discarded quickly so that the cycle can be repeated yet again for the benefit of the companies.

In a nutshell, fast fashion comprises the following: 

Fast trends: Producing new styles with an attractive price tag has always been a defining trait of the fashion industry. However, looking back, designers and brands would organise new clothing ranges many months or even years ahead of release. Today, the focus has pivoted to responding to consumer tastes that constantly change according to what is popular with social media influencers or celebrities.

With the power to reach millions across the world via the internet, a simple photo of them in a new outfit is all it takes to go viral. Followers and fans would discuss the look and share it with each other creating a buzz, and thus, a new trend would be born. Fast fashion companies would then take notice of it and respond promptly to the increasing demand and rush to mass produce these trendy outfits, often targeting young people who engage in this culture.

Fast production: With trends gaining popularity at lightning speed, producers are compelled to manufacture clothes and accessories accordingly to keep up. Factories are expected to produce new lines on short notice meaning that their employees usually have to work unreasonable hours for a measly pay. 

Fast sales and delivery: Global clothing sales have doubled from 100 to 200 billion units while clothing usage has decreased by 36% since the year 2000. A drastic increase in sales during the COVID-19 lockdown was a large contributor as consumers were inevitably pushed towards online shopping. With appealing holiday sales, discounts, cheap deals for quick delivery and easy payment options, there is little self-control when it comes to such a marketplace.

Fast use: A rough estimate has shown that an average item of clothing is only worn 14 times before its wear and tear catches up to it. Fast production entails using cheap and easily accessible raw materials such as synthetic fabrics to cut down on manufacturing costs. Most items are also not thoroughly inspected before sale and customers are bound to purchase a faulty and less durable item more often than not.

Akin to anything too good to be true, digging deeper into this quick and easy cash model reveals two highly critical entities that pay a heavy price.

Environmental impact
In a recent interview, Lonali Rodrigo, founder and designer of a local sustainable and conscious lifestyle brand - House of Lonali, exposed the harm caused by the fast fashion industry on the environment. She revealed about 2,700 litres of water is required to make just one kilogram of cotton. Additionally, sources show that cotton production uses 6% of the world’s pesticides and 16% of insecticides which eventually reach water bodies and oceans resulting in water pollution.

The industry also leaves a hefty carbon footprint, responsible for up to 10% of total global carbon emissions and is estimated to increase by 50% by 2030. It doesn’t just rely on the energy from fossil fuels to run garment factories and distribute items around the world but also to develop textile fibres from these very fuels. For example, polyester is a synthetic man-made fibre derived from crude oil and natural gas and is commonly found in at least half of all the textiles produced in the modern day. Textile waste from these fabrics ends up being burnt or dumped in landfills after being used only a handful of times and it takes about 300 years to fully decompose, causing natural ecosystems to suffer greatly. 

Some of this waste consists of new items from clothing lines that have become outdated too quickly, failing to reach a consumer. Rodrigo stated that shops have to clear out racks constantly to keep up with the often unnecessary trends that spruce up fashion, regardless of whether the outfits are climate-appropriate for a country like Sri Lanka that doesn’t experience all 4 seasons, and the result is accumulated waste that has to be destroyed instead of sold.

The trapped women workforce
The fast fashion industry thrives on employee exploitation as cheap items usually require cheap labour. Research from The Ethical Fashion Report in 2023, has shown that although there has been some progress, it would take at least 75 years before all companies paid a living wage at a minimum of one factory per company. 

Between the unsatisfactory pay and working long hours in cramped facilities, workers are also harassed during business hours and in some cases, outside of it too. As the majority of these factory workers comprise women from struggling families who have moved from their hometowns to the city, sexual and verbal assault seems to be the unfortunate norm that most are extremely uncomfortable with. 

Various global accounts of women including from India, Pakistan and Cambodia show that their male supervisors stalk, ridicule and pass inappropriate comments to them on the regular expecting these workers to either oblige or accept termination from the company. Human Rights Watch interviews with these workers show that many workers are unaware of their rights as employers under legal terms and even if they are, they cannot seek strict protection. 

Despite the growing numbers in fast fashion, it is still possible to wield this phenomenon in the right direction. 

Go thrifting
By opting to shop for secondhand clothing and accessories in garage sales or thrift stores, you can extend the lifecycle of an item even just for a few extra months, thereby reducing the relative carbon, water and waste impacts of it. A surefire sign of a durable item is that it can be owned for a second time, given its condition. With some luck, you could come across a limited item from your favourite punk band from 20 years ago!

Get creative
Hone a few basic sewing skills and you’re on track to creating a unique fit with the old clothes lying lazily in your wardrobe. This method of ‘upcycling’ reduces the demand for raw materials and adds value and charm to original pieces. Consider mending an item before chucking it in the dump - an old skirt does not necessarily need to end up in a landfill. 

Support local and sustainable brands
Aspects ranging from a company’s use of clean and green raw materials, ethical employee practice and adherence to animal rights by not producing items that use animal fur or leather are vital to consider when deciding on a purchase. Choosing to support local brands will ultimately reduce carbon footprint levels and aid economic growth, which is crucial to our country in the big picture.