What really captures your attention as you enter Lorraine Bartholomeusz’s cosy little home in Colombo is the aroma of steamed banana leaves. This shouldn’t come as a surprise as Lorraine is known to make some of the finest Lamprais in town.

According to Lorraine, Lamprais (originally called Lamprijst in Dutch which means ‘a packet of rice’) was introduced to Sri Lanka by the Dutch, “This whole thing came about during the Dutch period in Ceylon – it was their version of rice and curry,” she says adding, “It’s spicy but not chilli hot and it should also not be oily.” 

Lorraine goes on to explain that the original meat curry consisted of beef, pork and lamb however the lamb has been substituted with chicken. The delicious meat curry aside a packet of Lamprais should also consist a vegetable, which is why Ash Plantain is used, however Lorraine adds Brinjal Pehi instead as it freezes better but Ash Plantain can be added on request.

Rice cooked in a rich stock and spices is vital to a scrumptious Lamprais while the following are also a must: two Frikkadels (beef cutlets), Seeni Sambol and Blachan (a paste made with dry prawn powder). These are all cosily packed into a banana leaf.

 “In the good old days, it had to be served with a breakfast cup of rice,” she says adding, “The packet was smaller and the catering was done to this measure therefore three packets were enough for a gentleman and two for a lady.” Lorraine explains that the quantities were small because Lamprais was a delicacy. She stressed on the fact egg is not used in Lamprais unlike how many other restaurant serve it today. 

Due to a number of people not eating beef and pork, Lorraine also makes Chicken Lamprais but she stressed, “Chicken Lamprais is not traditional Lamprais.” She makes this to the same method as the meat curry however, using only diced chicken.

As to why the Dutch used the banana leaf to pack Lamprais, Lorraine says that it might have been due to the fact that the Dutch were in Indonesia for many years. They would therefore have been influenced by how the banana leaf was used in so many forms of Indonesian and Thai cooking.

A must in order to enjoy your Lamprais to the fullest is to eat it piping hot. “It makes all the difference because you get that lovely aroma,” Lorraine says adding that you can eat it when it is warm but it won’t taste the same. She suggests heating it in either a steamer, a conventional oven or a microwave oven but microwaving it can result in the rice drying out. Another tip to enjoying your Lamprais is to mix the rice along with all the other contents together!

Lorraine speaks about this delicacy with so much passion so I had to ask how it all began. “I watched my mother make Lamprais from the time I was a child, which was a long time ago,” she said with a smile, adding, that her mother had learned the intricate method of making this yummy Dutch delight from Lorraine’s grandmother. Therefore a generation of cooks have perfected the art of making the perfect Dutch Lamprais while Lorraine has been doing this for 15 to 20 years.

Lorraine’s delicious, traditional Dutch Lamprais can enjoyed at the VOC Cafe at the DBU (Dutch Burgher Union ) or you can call her direct (11-258-9673) and place your orders but keep in mind to call her and place your order at least two days in advance.  

 By Natasha Fernandopulle

By Kanishke Ganewatte