Through the Torii Gates: Nihonbashi Colombo Port City

Aug 22 2024.

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Stepping into Nihonbashi at Colombo Port City feels like embarking on a culinary journey through Japan. This new branch of the esteemed restaurant, helmed by Chef Dharshan Munidasa, welcomes you with 18 towering Torii gates—each symbolizing one of his establishments. As you pass through these gates, you're not merely entering a dining venue; you are stepping into a world that meticulously celebrates Japanese culture and cuisine. We were guided to our seats at the sushi bar, an ideal spot where the open kitchen allows diners to witness each dish being expertly crafted. This immersive experience transforms dining into a multi-sensory delight, as the sights, sounds and aromas of Japanese cooking surround you.

Nihonbashi’s interior design gracefully combines modern aesthetics with traditional Japanese elements. The minimalist decor, characterized by natural materials and subdued colours, creates a serene ambience. However, the true charm of the restaurant lies in its eight private dining rooms, each offering a distinctive experience. The Bonsai Room, with its tranquil atmosphere, is perfect for intimate family gatherings. This cosy space, adorned with a beautifully pruned bonsai, seats four guests in traditional tatami style, fostering a peaceful dining environment.

For those seeking a more immersive experience, the Chikurin Room, inspired by Kyoto’s Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, is a must-visit. Encased by 1,000 bamboo stalks, this room seats eight guests, offering a magical, cocoon-like setting that transports you to the heart of Japan. The Ikebana Room, named after the Japanese art of flower arranging pays homage to Chef Dharshan’s mother, an Ohara Style Grand Master. This room, which seats eight guests in tatami style, beautifully blends tradition with elegance, making it ideal for those who appreciate the refined art of Ikebana. For larger groups, the Samurai Room is an excellent choice. Adorned with a family heirloom—a samurai warrior painting—this room seats twelve guests in Western-style comfort, making it perfect for business meetings or special occasions. It also features a private restroom for added convenience.

Connoisseurs of fine spirits will find their haven in the Whiskey Room. This Western-style dining space seats four guests and is ideal for intimate gatherings over a selection of premium whiskies. The Sake Room offers a unique experience, featuring Sri Lanka’s largest collection of sake leading into a cosy, private dining area. This room, which seats four guests, is a sanctuary for those who truly appreciate the art of sake. Wine enthusiasts will be drawn to the Wine Room, a walk-in cellar themed around the colour burgundy. This intimate room, seating four guests, is a treasure trove of the restaurant’s finest wines, offering a luxurious dining experience.

For a more casual yet authentic encounter, the Tachinomi Bar has a grazing table and no chairs accommodates up to 24 guests and is adorned with vintage Japanese posters. It’s an ideal setting for private functions where guests can savour curated menus featuring sushi, sashimi, and small plates. Yet, the true highlights were the dishes themselves, each a masterpiece of authentic Japanese flavours with a contemporary twist. Our culinary journey began with Aji, Tuna, and Cuttlefish Sashimi. Each piece of sashimi was a revelation—an ode to the sea. The tuna was vibrant and buttery, melting effortlessly on the tongue, while the cuttlefish provided a creamy contrast.

The Aji, with its subtle briny sweetness, lingered delightfully on the palate, making this dish an absolute must-try. The Olive Oil Kake Tai Cha was another standout. This dish featured a bowl of rice topped with delicate slivers of fish and an egg yolk. Warmed olive oil, infused with garlic, was poured over, gently cooking the fish and yolk, resulting in a luxurious, creamy texture that was both comforting and indulgent. Next came the Shake No Aburi Sushi—a simple yet sensational dish that exemplifies the beauty of minimalism. A perfectly shaped rice ball topped with a slice of salmon was lightly seared with a blowtorch. The heat released the salmon's natural oils, which seeped into the rice, creating a luscious, almost decadent bite.

The absence of seasoning allowed the purity of the fish to shine through.The Leaf Tempura offered a delightful exploration of flavours, featuring crispy, deep-fried leafy greens like karapincha, gotukola, and spinach. Each leaf brought its own distinct flavour and texture, creating a medley that was both familiar and intriguing. The Ten Sabi Temaki was a playful dish—a crispy nori wrap filled with cold, wasabi-infused rice and a hot tempura prawn. The contrast in temperatures and textures was exciting, with the warmth of the prawn and the coolness of the rice creating a tantalising dance of flavours on the palate.

The Shirunashi Ramen (Spicy Prawn Soupless Ramen) brought a fiery kick to the table. This rich, semi-spicy dish, featuring succulent freshwater prawns, was an explosion of flavours. The ramen, bathed in a slightly oily, mild sauce, clung to every bite, delivering a burst of heat and depth. Our meal concluded on a sweet note with the Shibuya-style French Toast. Crafted from local woodfire bread soaked overnight in a secret concoction, this dessert was impossibly soft inside with a crisp edge.  Topped with cream, cubed fresh strawberries, and a drizzle of palm sugar, each bite was a perfect balance of sweetness and texture—a sublime way to end an unforgettable meal.

Nihonbashi in Colombo Port City offers not just a meal, but an immersive journey through Japanese cuisine. With its serene ambience, meticulous attention to detail and dishes that are as visually stunning as they are delicious, this is a dining experience you won’t want to miss.

Text - Salome Jans



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