Mar 12 2025.
views 7Some chefs train in culinary schools. Others learn through years of apprenticeships in professional kitchens. And then there are those, like Mansa, who absorb the craft by simply watching, by standing at the elbow of someone who knows food in a way that can’t be taught.
Thuwan Kichilan Mansoor, fondly known as Mansa, learned to cook from his mother, who infused every grain of rice, every simmering pot of curry, with quiet expertise. When she passed, the kitchen became a place of absence rather than comfort. It was his wife who led him back - gently, insistently - until he found his way, not just to cooking, but to something bigger. Today, Mansa’s Kitchen is a testament to that journey, a space where he prepares and delivers food that speaks of tradition, care, and the love of a good meal.
Pictured: Mansa
A good biriyani is a balancing act. The rice must be light, each grain distinct. The meat - whether chicken, mutton, or beef - should yield at the slightest nudge of a fork, suffused with the deep aromatics of slow cooking. And the spices should unfold in layers, revealing themselves in time.
Mansa’s biriyani is all of this and more. He insists on the highest quality ingredients, a discipline that is evident from the first bite. The basmati is fragrant and delicate, flecked with crisped onions and whole spices that bloom on the palate. The meat, marinated for hours, carries a richness that is neither overpowering nor lost.
And the accompaniments - often overlooked elsewhere - are just as carefully considered. The green peas with cashews offer a mild, creamy balance. The peas are soft but not mushy, and the toasted cashews add a bit of crunch and richness. The raita is light and cooling, cutting through the warmth of the biriyani’s spices. And then there’s the Maldive fish sambol - salty, spicy, and packed with umami, adding a bold kick to every bite.
Some recipes are passed down through generations, written in old notebooks or taught through careful repetition. But Mansa’s Malay pickle came to him in a dream. After his mother passed, she appeared to him one night, guiding him through the process until the recipe was complete.
The result? A pickle that strikes the perfect balance of sweet, tangy, and spicy. It’s more than just an accompaniment - it’s a story, a connection, and a reminder that some traditions find their way back to us, even in the most unexpected ways.
No biriyani is complete without a watalapam, and Mansa makes a good one. Rich, velvety, and deeply spiced, this dessert is everything it should be. The jaggery gives it a caramel-like sweetness, balanced by the warmth of cardamom and nutmeg. It’s smooth but not too dense, with just the right amount of bounce. Topped with toasted cashews, each spoonful is a mix of creamy and crunchy - a simple yet satisfying end to a hearty meal.
Then there’s the roast chicken - a dish that, in lesser hands, can fade into the background. Not here. Mansa has crafted his own signature sauce, a deep glaze that clings to the perfectly fried exterior, locking in flavour without overwhelming the chicken’s natural depth. The crust is shatteringly crisp, each bite yielding a contrast of textures - the crunch giving way to tender, juicy meat beneath. The sauce, a closely guarded secret, was delicious. It’s a chicken dish that refuses to be an afterthought.
With Ramadan around the corner, Mansa’s Kitchen is now taking orders from those looking for a feast that nourishes both the body and the soul. The food is halal, prepared with the same care and attention to detail that defines everything he makes.
For those looking for something beyond biriyani, his Beef Fry - which I’ve had the pleasure of trying on a previous occasion - is a standout. Rich and perfectly spiced, it’s the kind of dish that lingers in memory long after the last bite.
Mansa’s Kitchen isn’t a restaurant. It’s not a place you walk into, sit down, and order from a menu. It’s a home kitchen, built on tradition and passion, where every dish is cooked with the same care as a family meal. And when you take that first bite, you can taste exactly that.
Check out Mansa’s social media for the full menu and order details:
Facebook: Mansa’s Kitchen
Instagram: @man_saskitchen1
Pics Kushan Pathiraja
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