Sep 28 2022.
views 618It’s been a while since I featured any brands in this column; things have been so tight and it’s been a struggle for many local brands. But it’s amazing to see it build up again and become stronger.
The Men’s Suit embodies a few things - the attitude and the charm and the fashionable details of pants. A two-piece suit is the most basic type of suit, but if the fabric and colour combination is good, the sky is the limit. Today I speak to a young team and UGO about what makes them unique.
1 – What made you start this brand called UGO Bespoke and how has it been?
I have always been a follower of the Italian style of bespoke clothing. To bring the true flavour of this master art to Sri Lanka, we started the UGO bespoke. We are experts on both male & female tailored clothing. So far our journey has been wonderful, and we are excited about the future.
2 – What are the looks you have featured on me today?
The first one is a red-carpet outfit. Something special for a special person like you. This tuxedo jacket was embellished with lace to add more detail and character. The second outfit is an Irish linen jacket. This lightweight, the soft fabric gives you extra comfort while giving you a semi-casual look. We loved the colour palette that was released for the spring-summer collection in 2022. So the third outfit is inspired by that. It gives you a cosy feeling. Ideal for summer.
3 – The cut is what makes a suit stand out, how do you ensure that you get the perfect fit? And how do you pick your fabrics?
Yes, exactly. The cut is everything when it comes to bespoke tailoring. For the perfect cut, the most important part is accurate measurements. That’s why we have appointed a master tailor to take measurements. This is against the observed anatomy. In most tailoring houses, the measurements are taken by one person, the cutting is done by another, and someone totally different does the fitting. But at UGO, our master tailor takes all the measurements, cuts, sews, and does the fitting. This ensures that our master tailor crafts your suit from start to finish. A truly bespoke experience.
We are authorised importers of more than 25 European fabric brands, spanning over 10,000 designs. We are the largest fabric collection for tailored suits in Colombo as a bespoke house. Fabric selection is something very close to our hearts. We closely follow trade shows around the world to ensure the latest designs are given to our customers. The Premiere Vision – Paris is one of our favourites.
4. How would you describe your personal style?
UGO house style is inspired by Neapolitan-style jackets. Our jackets are cut to the natural shoulder and crafted with minimal shoulder padding. We produce extreme-lightweight suits for comfort and flexibility. It perfectly fits our climate as well.
5. What are the customizable features that you provide with your suit and jackets?
There are many features that we offer to our clients in their bespoke suits. Clients can select natural horn buttons for their jackets. Lining from over 500 designs, and collar felt from over 100 designs. Also, we do Prick stitching in colours that clients prefer. It’s a favourite of many of our clients. We also do handmade buttonholes in preferred colours. As you would have noticed, it’s a unique experience for our clients.
6. Who has been your biggest inspiration when it comes to fashion
Nish de Gruiter. Nish is a Sri Lankan-born fashion specialist working as a Senior Vice President at SuitSupply. I was amazed by the approach he took to convert traditional Italian tailoring to suit the modern suit culture.
7 – What is the process of bespoke stitching?
Bespoke is all about a personalized experience. A suit is done to suit you and only you. And it’s a journey. Since we are not tailors by appointment, we welcome all our clients for a free consultation anytime during working hours. The journey starts there. Then we discuss the requirements of the client and try to understand what our client really desires. Based on this, we select the style, fabric, and accessories. There are more than 10,000 fabric samples available at our store for selection, which are based on skin tone, purpose, and usage. After that, our master tailor will take the measurements. Fittings and finalizing the garment happen after that. The word bespoke is derived from the verb "bespeak," meaning to "speak for something." We want our suits to speak on behalf of the client. Make them stand out.
8. What according to you is your favourite part of being in this industry? And what’s next for the brand?
They say fashion is temporary, but style is eternal. Bespoke suits should reflect the wearer and his or her style. Furthermore, everyone's style is unique and different. My favourite part is working with clients to understand their style and make garments that reflect it. I can’t put to words the satisfaction we get when we see the client in the final product and how the suit perfectly resonates with the individual’s style. It's like a match made in heaven.
What is next for the brand? You are one of the first to hear this. We are currently working with a bespoke tailoring house in Italy to bring the ultimate bespoke tailoring experience to our clients. It’s exciting. You will be the first to hear when we are ready.
9 – How many fittings are needed before you finalize?
Minimum 2 fittings. The first one is a basted fitting. We stitch all parts by hand using white colour basting thread. At this stage, we finalize all design details, lengths, and girth of the suit. After we complete 50% of the garment, we do the second fitting. At this stage, our customers can see most of the features such as pockets and lapels. But we don’t restrict ourselves from this. Our goal is to give the best customer experience. So additional fittings are also accommodated.
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