The Style Files : André Courrèges
The space age couturier of the swinging sixties - André Courrèges
André Courrèges, the acclaimed French designer whose eponymous label once set the trends for stars like Brigitte Bardot and Jacqueline Kennedy who admired its ground-breaking geometry, plastic miniskirts, space-age silhouettes and futuristic textiles, passed away on the 6th of January at the age of 92, at his home outside Paris.
André Courrèges was born on March 9, 1923, in the city of Pau, in the French Pyrenees. His father was a butler, who disapproved of André’s desire to go to art school and wanted him to be an engineer. André obliged, attending the École Nationale des Ponts-et-Chaussées (now known as École des ponts ParisTech).
He became a pilot in the French Air Force in World War II, and after the war decided to change professions. At 28, he joined the house of Balenciaga in an entry-level role. He stayed 10 years, ultimately becoming first assistant to Balenciaga before going out on his own in 1961.
Courrèges was the inventor of the miniskirt, has aways been his claim and that of the French fashion fraternity much to the chagrin of London’s Mary Quant who claimed she innovated the thigh-high hemline in her Chelsea boutique. There’s no conclusive evidence to back either claim, but that aside he was instrumental in making it a fashion staple.
André Courrèges made his name in the early 1960s, at the dawn of the space age, and it quickly became synonymous with a certain style and attitude that gained momentum during that decade. He proposed a look that was strikingly, even aggressively bold, futuristic and unforgiving. As old norms were rejected in favor of a celebration of freedom in the form of flat bright white go-go boots, slender trousers (Courrèges was also one of the first to offer those in high fashion) a palette of white and silver with an occasional shot of lime and tangerine, and, above all, a miniskirt. The little white dress replaced the little black dress as the frock of choice.
If the words ‘modern’ and ‘future’ exist in fashion, it is because of Courrèges. Mr. Courrèges was an admirer of the modernist architect and designer Le Corbusier and like him felt the designer, not the client, knew best. He disliked anything that restricted movement - bras, corsets and high heels. He once said, “A woman is never more beautiful than when she is naked,”.
Though he left his namesake brand in the ‘90s and it changed hands several times, including once being owned by cosmetic giant L’Oreal today, his legacy is being carried on with the house showing its first collection for Spring 2016 after a long hiatus.
President François Hollande wrote on Twitter: “A revolutionary designer, André Courrèges made his mark on haute couture using geometric shapes and new materials.” A very fitting summation of the designer’s contribution to the industry and his importance in the historic arc of fashion.
By Minoli Ratnayake
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