Mathilde Dratwa reporting from HSBC CFW 2012.
This evening (Feb 24) marked the opening of Colombo Fashion Week at the Hilton, and it seems a lot has changed since the first CFW in 2003. At its humble beginnings, CFW showcased only 3 designers - in contrast to the 32 designers who will be participating this year. Designer Yolanda Holm remarked that this event has really helped Sri Lankan designers make a mark on the international fashion scene. And indeed, this year 22 local designers will be showing their latest work.
"The design scene has really expanded in Sri Lanka over the last few years," comments Malsha, who has attended CFW several times. This year, Malsha came in an elegant black suit by Rishad, while her friend Sabrina sported a more vibrant hue. Dressed in a blue Top-Shop dress, Sabrina explains how to dress up a retail purchase: "I decided to wear a bold necklace by Louise, which I bought in Melbourne, to make this dress pop."
The showstopper tonight was KT Brown, whose line blended retro diagonal stripes with this year's colours: rich gold and green. The designer only appeared onstage very briefly at the end of the show, shyly darting back behind the curtain. And yet she was the name on everyone's lips as they filed out of the grand ballroom. "I really liked the fact that many of the female models were wearing trousers. There was something so modern about that," said Olivia, 27. Her collection was indeed modern, blending elegance with playfulness. Even the choreography, set to Paul Simon's song "Diamonds on the soles of her shoes", reflected the spirit of the beautiful creations. The models first appeared dancing and smiling, in contrast to their usual stern faces.
To your left: Malsha and Sabrina
Another highly anticipated event was the unveiling of Dimuthu's new line. The winner of last year's Gen Next award, Dimuthu's stylish lines, in subdued hues, were beautifully vintage. Rishini, wearing Pixie Lott, says she "loved his stuff - it was very different." As always with his clothes, everything is designed, sourced and manufactured in Sri Lanka. Other designers that stood out included Gaetano Navarra, whose work is always rather insolent. This year, one male model walked the catwalk in a chic t-shirt, and... underwear! Perine Fernando, the CFW spokesperson and one of Sri Lanka's most beloved supermodels, made her first formal appearance of the week in a white Gaetano Navarra piece, walking confidently to the audience's loud, spontaneous applause.
Finally, Sonali Dharmawardena deserves a special mention for her unique line, which uses her signature batik style but also incorporates feathers and headpieces. Sonali's inspiration is drawn from nature. Travelling around her native Sri Lanka, Sonali has been struck by the devastation of the tsunami, and decided to incorporate that sombre feeling into some dark hues. However, hope for the future is ever-present, reflected in much lighter colours. Sonali's silk saris are available from her recently launched brand Acushla, and will certainly be a must-buy for fashion lovers everywhere: in Sri Lanka and abroad.
Perine Fernando, Spokesperson:
"It's important for Sri Lankan designers to work alongside international designers, to share their creations."
Mark, who has recently moved to Colombo from Australia, remarked that "there are a lot of great clothes for men in this fashion show." His favourite line was the "Middle Finger" line which opened the show, ranging from elegant suits to more casual t-shirts and denim.
Here are the designers and their creations that were displayed tonight.
Fahad Sheriff
Label - Middle Finger
His brand, Middle Finger, showed for the first time at Colombo Fashion Week 2007, where he presented a new collection of jackets and blazers adding to his established focus on stylish yet casual men’s shirts. Since then he has branched out even further, adding a line of jeans and graphic design T-shirts called MF Art before expanding into a range of fashionable belts, wallets, shoes, ties and other accessories.
Sonali Dharmawardena
Sri Lankan designer Sonali Dharmawardena is on a mission to create awareness about batik’s versatility in the fashion scene. Sonali believes that batik is very much a part of Sri Lanka’s art and craft circle. The versatility of the batik technique and the ability to use waxing and dyeing make the batik medium a perfect choice to complement Sri Lanka’s fashion industry. She recently launched her brand, Acushla, which offers one-of-a-kind batik silk sarees and women’s apparel. Geometric patterns, inspired by nature, are often used in her designs. Some of Sri Lanka’s natural surroundings have impacted the geometrical designs used.
Upeksha
Label - U
Having studied costume design at the Art Institute of Philadelphia, Upeksha Hager worked as a designer for a number of years in Washington DC Theater. Returning to Sri Lanka after twenty years abroad, she launched her fashion brand two years ago. ‘U by Upeksha’ is an extension of a lifelong immersion in the visual arts. In Upeksha’s second year showing at Colombo Fashion Week, she’ll bring jewel-colored Kanchipuram silks and organza brocades. Inspired by Art Nouveau, she aspires to create a fresh interpretation of that iconic style and period.
Avirate
Nadiya Iqbal
Nadiya Iqbal's collection is inspired by the modern woman--as masculine as she is feminine, as strong as she is sensitive. Nadiya's collection combines heavy fabrics with light chiffons and soft laces with raw crude edges. The structure of the garments are sometimes tailored and yet interlinked with soft drapery and flounce. Drawn from the energies of those strong women of a century gone by who took to the streets in their bonnets and flared skirts to liberate generations to follow, she honours the women of today who have reaped the fruits of that legacy to stand tall, confident and strong.
Fouzul Hameed
Hameedia
With over two decades of experience in men's fashion, Fouzul has developed four unique brands, Envoy - Sri Lanka's top premium brand, Le Bond - Sri Lanka's top masstige brand, Signature - Sri Lanka's top national brand & the brand and of course, Hameedia’s. His clients include the President of Sri Lanka, top cricketers – local and international, top business personnel, diplomats, VIP's and film stars from Sri Lanka and overseas. Fouzul is a certified Menswear Image Consultant (USA), a much sought after speaker globally, and his fortnightly column in the weekly newspapers is much looked forward by his faithful readers. He has also launched the "FH academy" which is Sri Lanka's sole men's grooming academy.
Lillian Pereira
Born in Norway, Lillian has spent two decades of her life living in Sri Lanka. Designing batik dresses for sale in Norway, her designs also received attention here, winning first prize in the Lanka Woman competition called ”Vogue -87” in 3 out of 4 categories: Evening wear, Office wear and Casual wear. She twice created designs for the Model of the Year contest, where her daughter was Miss Sri Lanka in 1985. From 1992 to 2007 she was the local representative for Helly Hansen sportswear. This is her first showing with Colombo Fashion Week.
Dimuthu Sahabandu
Dimuthu Sahabandu began his career as the assistant designer to KT Brown, before launching his own self-named brand in 2010. His contemporary Sri Lankan designer clothing brand introduces capsule collections of high-end ready-to-wear clothing with the focus of bringing forth the true Sri Lankan identity. The brand maintains standards of only producing limited quantities of each design and each piece is designed, sourced and manufactured in Sri Lanka. Last year’s showing at CFW led him to showing and retailing in India.
Gaetanno Navara
Italian born and bred, with experience grown in his family’s knitting company, Gaetanno Navara put his technical know-how to good use in creating his own exceptionally innovative designs. In 1986, his first prêt-a-porter knitwear collection hit the fashion shows in his native Bologna, and by 1991 he attracted the attention of the international press at the Milano Collezioni. Designer-made knitwear using modern techniques on unusual material, dazzling colours and sensual lines create youthful garments for the self-confident and satirical personality. Based in Bologna, Italy, he currently markets across Europe, England, the US and Japan.
"This year, it's all about natural materials. Silk, cotton and linen."
Manoviraj Khosla
Manoviraj Khosla has been ranked among the top 5 designers in India Fashion Week, and is a well-known and loved designer on the Colombo Fashion Week stage. After studying fashion design at the American College in London he set up his own studio in 1990. Initially focused on men’s wear, he now designs women’s wear and stylish footwear, and also designed a line of sportswear under the Kingfisher label. He has also designed uniforms for many corporate houses, restaurants, bars, hotels, school and airlines. He retails his lines through his own stores in Bangalore and Calcutta and at several high end boutiques in major cities.
Kanchana
KT Brown
Kanchana has worked as a freelance fashion and costume designer, as well as a Production Designer and Art Director for film and television, winning several local awards for internationally acclaimed work.
Under the label “KT Brown” Kanchana’s designs have been selected for International fashion weeks in Miami and Russia. Working with traditional craftsmen to develop the fabric and embellishments, she aims to promote their work for use in modern fashion. Her studio can be found at Park Street Mews in Colombo.
Pics by Manoj Ratnayake and Samantha Perera
0 Comments