Chanel Courting Controversy Or Celebrating Cuba? 

President Obama, the Rolling Stones and now Chanel. Last Tuesday, the 5th of May saw another iconic first by the French brand as it became the first European fashion house since Castro took power in 1959 to stage a show in Cuba. 

The runway event kicked off both the official cruise collection season, which stretches to mid-June and the meeting of the two heritage colossi took place on Paseo del Prado, and was the perfect choice as the street alluded to the house’s roots; having been redesigned by a French architect in 1928. Interestingly its crossroads were littered with bronze lion sculptures, a serendipitous nod to Coco Chanel's fixation with the animal. 

Around 600 guests were were in attendance, including customers, fashion editors and celebrities like Gisele Bündchen, Vin Diesel, Vanessa Paradis, Tilda Swinton, as well as hundreds of local residents who could be seen hanging over the balconies of apartment buildings lining the avenue, and watching this historic event from the street. 

The show featured 86 looks from designer Karl Lagerfeld including a few men’s wear styles, all of which ranged from the elaborate to the everyday. Raising his hat to the country's colourful history, Lagerfeld paraded  the 'Cuban tux' — cropped dinner jackets anchored by wide legged pin striped trousers. Dipping his paintbrush into the country's palette of effervescent hues, ruffled (some sheer)evening gowns and tweed separates came in an explosion of burnt orange, azure blue and mellow, butter yellow — expertly tinged with the spirit of a hedonistic island retreat.  Leaves of indigenous plants wafted from the full calf-length skirts along with a whiff of Hemingway. The city's signature multi hued  Buicks, Oldsmobile and Cadillacs doubled as the designer's cruise graphics. There were light-as-air white crocheted lace dresses and sparkling pastel sequined party frocks with puffed whipped-cream sleeves. Lagerfeld included  panama hats and berets (very Chanel, very Che) and a male model carrying a Cuban cigar. 

Chanel PR have been quick to point out that, the house has no official history with Cuba — it was not an inspiration for Coco or anything — it was simply a creative decision, inspired by Cuba’s “cultural richness. 

American News Channel ABC News reported that the average wage is still around $25 a month. They went on to say the show “was a startling sight in a country officially dedicated to social equality and the rejection of material wealth.” 

There is no question that simply holding such an event in Havana brings both huge global attention, interest and real investment to the city. There is massive potential at the moment with the new relationship between the island nation and the style set. Both social and mainstream media is awash with images from Cuba generating massive interest in the country. Who is to say those benefits do not far outweigh the moral issue of promoting incredibly expensive clothes for the very few (in the world) in a country where no one can buy such clothes? Probably why Mr. Lagerfeld included all those shades of grey on the runway! 

Text by Minoli Ratnayake