Award-Winning French Lankan Artisan Boulanger: Tharshan Selvarajah

Jul 28 2023.

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A few weeks ago the French media was saturated with a story about Sri Lankan Tharshan Selvarajah winning the top title of the Meilleure Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris (the best traditional French baguette of Paris). Not only Sri Lankans in France but those around the world were filled with pride that a fellow Lankan had to bear the French at their own skill of making baguettes. In an exclusive interview with Life Tharshan speaks candidly.

Q WHEN DID YOU FIRST ARRIVE IN FRANCE? I first arrived in France in 2006 and settled in Paris. It was a significant moment in my life, as it marked the beginning of my journey in this beautiful country, where I would later pursue my passion for baking and achieve my dreams as a baker. The decision to come to France opened up a world of opportunities and experiences that have shaped me into the baker I am today. It's a chapter of my life that I hold dear, filled with memories of growth, learning, and ultimately finding my place in the world of French baking.

Q WHAT MADE YOU BECOME A BAKER? Becoming a baker was a natural progression for me. In 2009, I began working in a bakery, and I immediately fell in love with the hands-on nature of the job. There was something deeply fulfilling about using my hands to create something beautiful and delicious. As I continued to hone my skills and gain experience in the bakery, I found immense joy in seeing people savouring and enjoying the products I had crafted with care and passion. The satisfaction of knowing that my creations brought happiness to others was incredibly gratifying which made me decide to focus on baking.

Q DID YOU FOLLOW A PROFESSIONAL BAKER COURSE? No, I did not attend a professional baker course. Instead, I was fortunate to have the guidance and support of Mr Xavier Moulavé, the owner of the boulangerie where I started my work and which I have taken over. He generously allowed me to gain hands-on professional experience by working alongside him. Under his mentorship, I honed my skills, learned the art of traditional French baking, and developed a deep understanding of the craft. His mentorship played a crucial role in shaping my journey as a baker, and I am incredibly grateful for the opportunity he gave me to learn and grow in the world of baking.

Q WHAT IS THE BEST PART OF BEING A BAKER? The best part of being a baker is the sense of focus and precision required in the craft. Baking is an art that demands careful attention to detail and perfect timing. It's not just about mixing ingredients; it's about understanding the science behind the process, knowing when the dough is ready, and mastering the art of baking to achieve the desired results.

Q WHY DO YOU SPECIALISE IN BAGUETTES? I specialise in baguettes because I have a deep appreciation for the art of handcrafted products, and baguettes, in particular, allow me to express my passion through my hands. The process of creating each baguette from scratch, shaping the dough, and carefully baking it to perfection is a true labour of love. When I won the third prize in the competition in 2018, it sparked a desire within me to explore further and gain more recognition for my craft. Baguettes are iconic symbols of French baking and were made a UNESCO Treasure in 2022, and by focusing on perfecting this traditional bread, I believed I could elevate my skills and gain popularity among customers who appreciate the authenticity of artisanal products.

Q WHAT MADE YOU ENTER THE GRAND PRIX DE LA BAGUETTE DE TRADITION FRANÇAISE DE LA VILLE DE PARIS, COMPETITION? I wanted to be known for my skills as a baker, and I wanted to show the world that it's possible for someone like me to have goals and be able to achieve them. The Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris is a prestigious competition that celebrates the art of traditional French baking, and I saw it as an opportunity to challenge myself and showcase my passion for creating the perfect baguette. Participating in this competition allowed me to demonstrate my dedication to the craft and share my love for French baking with a wider audience. Winning the competition served as a platform to showcase the diversity and talent seen in the baking community in addition to being a personal accomplishment.

I hope that my accomplishment encourages people to go after their goals and never doubt their potential, regardless of their upbringing or place of origin. Moreover, the fact that the baguette of the winner was used by the President of France was a tremendous inspiration for me. It demonstrated the significance and honour associated with this competition, and it motivated me to put my best foot forward and aim for the highest standard of excellence.

Q HAVE YOU FACED ANY CRITICISM THAT A NON-FRENCH PERSON WON THE COMPETITION? Nope, no criticism at all! Thankfully, everyone has been super supportive. You know, it's funny – I guess people just like me! Just kidding, of course. But seriously, I believe in putting out positive vibes, and it seems like I've been getting that positivity back in return. It's all about spreading good energy, and it's been amazing to see how people appreciate and embrace diversity not only in the baking community but everywhere.

Q SINCE THE WIN HOW POPULAR HAS YOUR BAKERY AU LEVAIN DES PYRÉNÉES BECOME? Since the win, my bakery "Au Levain des Pyrénées" has become incredibly popular. The recognition from winning the award has brought a significant increase in attention and customers. I was pleasantly surprised and filled with joy when, on the day after the announcement, I saw a massive line forming outside the bakery. The sudden surge in customers and the overwhelming support from the community have been both stunning and heart-warming. It's incredibly rewarding to witness how my dedication to traditional French baking and the recognition of winning the competition has resonated with so many people from various walks of life.

Q HAVE YOU EVER CONSIDERED MAKING SRI LANKAN BAKERY PRODUCTS LIKE KIMBULA BUNS, FISH BUNS AND PATTIES FOR YOUR FRENCH CUSTOMERS? As of now, my bakery is solely focused on traditional French baguettes and viennoiseries as an Artisanal Boulangerie. I haven't considered incorporating Sri Lankan bakery products like fish buns and patties for my French customers at this moment. However, your suggestion has sparked an interesting idea for future ventures. It's always exciting to explore new possibilities and introduce diverse flavours to our customers. I'll definitely keep your suggestion in mind, and for any potential future ventures, I might consider incorporating some Sri Lankan bakery products. It would be a wonderful way to celebrate and share my cultural heritage with a broader audience while continuing to promote the essence of traditional French baking.

Q WHAT OTHER PLANS DO YOU HAVE FOR THE BAKERY? My future plan for the bakery is to spread the delicious taste of baguettes beyond France. I want to open franchises of my bakery, called "Le Pain de Tharshan," in different parts of the world. The focus will be on maintaining the same high-quality and hand-made techniques that make our baguettes special. We'll provide the necessary technical expertise and ensure strict adherence to our quality standards. Additionally, I'll personally visit and provide training to each team to ensure consistency and excellence across all our international locations. So if you share a passion for baking and would like to collaborate with me, you can get more info at www.lepaindetharshan.fr

Q HAVE YOU HAD ANY CELEBRITY CUSTOMERS SINCE THE WIN? Yes, since winning the competition, I have been fortunate to have a diverse range of customers, including some well-known chefs, government officials, and people from various countries and different walks of life. It has been a humbling and exciting experience to see so many people coming to congratulate me and show their support which has been pouring till now. Having renowned chefs among my customers is truly an honour. Their appreciation and feedback have been invaluable in further honing my skills and pushing the boundaries of my creations.

Q WHAT DOES YOUR FAMILY IN SRI LANKA AND FRANCE THINK ABOUT THIS ACHIEVEMENT? My family in Sri Lanka and France were initially happy for me when they heard about my achievement in Paris, France. In the beginning, it seemed like a small matter, making waves locally, but things changed rapidly as the news spread to various international publications. The fact that a Sri Lankan Tamil guy won this prestigious competition in its 30th year, and then the baguette was recognised as a UNESCO treasure in 2022, made it a huge deal. The news of my victory was received with immense pride and joy by my family. It became a moment of celebration not only for them but also for the Sri Lankan community, as people from all walks of life, without any barriers of religion, place, or community, joined in to share their excitement and support. It was heart-warming to see how my achievement brought people together, bridging divides and promoting unity.

Q ANY ADVICE TO YOUNG PEOPLE CONSIDERING A CAREER IN BAKING? To all the young aspiring bakers out there, my advice would be to have a clear vision of what you want to achieve in this field. Setting a goal or an aim will make your journey much smoother than just going with the flow. Create a plan and map out the steps you need to take to reach your goals. Whether it's attending culinary school, getting hands-on experience in a bakery, or even starting your own small baking venture, having a roadmap will keep you focused and on track. Lastly, stay curious and open to experimenting with new techniques, flavours, and styles. The world of baking is vast and ever-evolving, so don't hesitate to explore and be innovative.

Always remember, with the right mix of determination, planning, and sincerity, you can definitely turn your passion for baking into a fulfilling and successful career. Best of luck on your baking journey! If you are goal-oriented and determined to succeed in the baking field, know that we are planning to offer training opportunities. Keep an eye out for such initiatives, at www. lepaindetharshan.fr as they can provide you with valuable insights and hands-on experience to help you in the field of baking.

Q DO YOU PLAN TO CELEBRATE THIS VICTORY IN SRI LANKA? Absolutely! There is definitely an idea to celebrate my victory in Sri Lanka. I am thrilled to be arriving in Sri Lanka on the 28th and can't wait to share my happiness and success with my family, friends, and the entire community. It's going to be a special and joyous occasion, as we come together to celebrate this significant milestone in my career as a baker.


ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Tina Edward Gunawardhana

Tina Edward Gunawardhana is a journalist specialising in travel, fashion, lifestyle, cuisine and personalities. She is also the Deputy Editor for Hi!! Magazine. An intrepid traveller, she likes to show readers the world through her eyes and experiences. Follow her on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram - tinajourno [email protected]


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